In Beirut, a cosmopolitan, westernised city, coffee is served in every possible way: from Arab-Bedouin decoctions to Turkish infusions, spiced coffee and American coffee, espresso and white coffee (which doesn’t contain coffee and is for anyone intolerant to caffeine). Far from the cities, the traditions of individual communities survive, like the bizarre coffee obtained by roasting acorns or the South American mate infusion, imported by the emigrants on their return from Brazil. While historical cafés don’t exist anymore in Beirut, rebuilt several times after the conflicts (except for the Gemmayzeh Café, where artists, intellectuals and older backgammon players used to gather), in Tripoli some examples of popular old-style cafés still survive, where Turkish coffee is drunk in clouds of hookah smoke. Street coffee vendors offer passers-by Turkish coffee prepared in colourful portable kitchens, or western-style coffee extracted from espresso machines mounted on tricycles and carts or coffee in the strict Arab tradition, poured from large metal jugs with built-in heaters at their base.